‘I never thought my holiday of a lifetime would involve sharks..‘
My eyes are shut tight and when I open them reality hits – I’m underwater, face-to-face with a shark, okay make that ten sharks. The stuff of nightmares for some has just become my reality and I’m strangely calm. Who knew my quest to find paradise would involve me meeting the cast of Jaws?
I have to admit, I didn’t know much about French Polynesia before I arrived on the South Pacific archipelagos (unless Moana counts?), but to say I was excited to explore some of the 118 volcanic and coral islands on a ten-day trip would be an understatement. I had only an image of the beautiful, celebrity-favourite island of Bora Bora to draw an idea from, so I had high hopes and couldn’t wait to tick off this bucket-list experience.
First stop: Tahiti
The only international airport’s located on the island of Tahiti, the hub of French Polynesia, which I flew into after almost 24 hours of travelling – first an 8-hour journey from Paris to LAX with Air Tahiti Nui, then a short stop before the final 11-hour leg into Faa’a. Although tired, I’m still giddy with excitement, especially after a warm welcome by a group of traditional Polynesian dancers at airport arrivals. I check in to Le Tahiti by Pearl Resorts and, although the room’s an Instagram dream, sleep is the only thing on my mind tbh – especially as I’m due to continue my journey early next morning to the island of Huahine.
Aloha Huahine!
From the window of the small plane, I can see the design of the stunning lagoons that halo the two islands that comprise Huahine. My first observation? Just how green and lush the landscape is. I’m greeted by a tour guide, who takes me out on my first boat trip of the holiday. Despite wearing waterproofs due to the wet weather (September – April is rainy season!), everyone aboard’s enchanted as we zip past the magnificent bays and white sandy beaches.
Our guide points out a small private island where Barack Obama once stayed with his family… ‘Well, if this place is good enough for a US president,’ I think to myself. And I can see why it is. The scenery is incredibly tranquil and idyllic, seemingly untouched by the modern world.
Huahine Pearl Farm
Out first stop is Huahine Pearl farm, located just off the shore. Here, we’re shown how the famous Tahitian pearl is made. It’s a process I’ve never even thought about before, but seeing how they’re crafted in their natural environment is a fascinating experience.
Next, it’s onto a picnic lunch set out on one of the small private inlets, where we’re serenaded by some ukulele playing and a delicious local seafood feast, before we head back across the lagoon. Once we’re on the boat, our guide suddenly points out something in the near distance. A mother whale and her pup are feeding nearby, apparently through the months of July to November it’s farrowing season so they can be seen feeding in the shallower waters — along with sting rays, dolphins and even turtles.
Our homestead for the night is the stunning beachfront Hotel Le Mahana where, after a packed first day, I’m keen to crawl into my comfy double bed. Rather than exhaustion, it’s more a feeling of complete contentment and settling into the relaxed island life.
Smooth sailing around Raiatea
After my whistlestop 24-hour tour of Huahine, I set off by plane again, this time to visit the island of Raiatea, where I’m due to join a catamaran cruise with Tahiti Yacht Charter for the next two nights. This is something I’ve really been looking forward to, mainly because I’ve binged far too many series of Below Deck and am keen to find out if it lives up to reality.
Charter excursions are extremely popular across the islands, where the combo of calm reefs and crystal-clear waters makes it the perfect location to explore by boat. After a leisurely lunch on board, consisting of traditional local dish Poisson Cru (fish marinated in a coconut milk, delicious!), it’s time try a spot of snorkelling to explore the colourful coral gardens beneath the surface of the reef.
Although I’m more of a leisurely lane swimmer than a scuba diver, I can’t pass up an opportunity to see these underwater worlds for myself, so I dive in too. Nothing prepares me for the stunning scenes: dozens of brightly coloured schools of fish whizz past and hide beneath the vibrant delicate coral formations. All that’s missing from this Disney-style underwater scene is Ariel and Nemo.
Snorkelling with sharks (yes, really)
What could go wrong?
These coral reefs dotted around the lagoons, are also home to black fin reef sharks. If you’re brave enough, you’re invited to take the plunge and get in and swim with these curious, fascinating animals.
Initially, I’m reluctant. However the next day my guide takes me out to the edge of the reef and turns the engine off. One minute the waters are empty save a few calm waves, the next minute the boat is surrounded. At first, it’s just two or three reef sharks, but before long the number has slowly crept up to around 10-12.
My first reaction is nerves (it’s no surprise that the collective noun for a group of sharks is a shiver!), but am assured by the guide that they’re actually very friendly, so eventually I agree to dive in. I grab my flippers, get in and start swimming…and it’s incredible.
The feeling of swimming almost eye-to-eye with one of these powerful creatures is so amazing I have to pinch myself – another bucket list item well and truly ticked off!
Last stop: Tahaa
After a few days sailing around the lagoons of Raitea, I arrive on the island of Tahaa, where I disembark and am taken to my final accommodation, local guesthouse Pension Anahata. It has the most stunning view of the bay and I still can’t quite believe I’m actually here.
I head down to the private beach and take a moment, perch on the conveniently placed beach swing and a core memory is unlocked. I really don’t want to go home now.
But that time of reflection doesn’t last long as I have a fully packed day ahead. A guide picks me up for a tour of the island in a safari-style 4×4. We whizz through the small villages, taking in all the lush scenery and listen as the guide shares his wealth of knowledge — and even demonstrates how to make traditional Tahitian crowns from palm fronds. We make a few more stops along the way including a local rum distillery and a vanilla farm, where he shows us how they grow the beans, harvest and then eventually dry them to make the vanilla pods.
Back at Pension Anahata, I spend my final evening soaking up the fiery sunset, strolling barefoot in the soft white sand and falling asleep to the sound of waves in my beachfront bungalow. Bliss.
Verdict:
My usual holiday would normally consist of a week lounging by a pool, with a couple of books and hotel cocktails to keep me company, but I’m so glad I stepped out of my comfort zone on this trip. Over the past ten days I’ve learnt a lot about Tahitian culture, their way of life and just how passionate and rightly proud the locals are of their heritage.
Our last guide explains to us that the locals often describe their way of life as Mana, where they encourage and appreciate a much slower pace. I was more than happy to try this out for myself on the trip — after all, where better to practise laidback living than in paradise?
Go there!
Air Tahiti Nui flies to Tahiti from France via LA or Seattle. Rooms at Le Tahiti by Pearl Resorts from £435pn BOOK NOW
Beach bungalows at Le Mahana from £286pn, BOOK NOW
Rooms at Pension Anahata from £143pn. Tahiti Yacht Charter, BOOK NOW
For more information on the islands visit Tahiti Tourisme.
